Comments on: Mavic Open Pro/Shimano 105 Wheelset

By: John Knott

John Knott — Fri, 16 Nov 2012 11:43:35 +0000

I built open pro’s onto 105 hubs for my Raleigh Time Trial Special several years ago and have done around 15000 miles on them with no problems.
I have just replaced the rear hub as the bearings were starting to feel a little rough. No complaints with either hus or rims.
Out of interest I weigh 82kg and the roads I use are frequently rough and pot-holed.

By: kurka

kurka — Tue, 15 May 2012 06:54:57 +0000

Got silver open pro 32holes on the front wheel ,and classic hard anodized open pro 36 holes on the rear(both laced 3x) -in my commuter(bad asfalt ,woods ,even mountains). Both used before me .My weight -average 90 kg.
After 3 years of everyday use -i’ve broke my steel frame ,the wheels are still in perfect shape

By: Deron

Deron — Thu, 15 Apr 2010 07:49:25 +0000

I love nipple cream. And Open Pro’s? :p

By: Darren

Darren — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:04:58 +0000

Mark’

You might try going to a 14g double butted spoke, which will flex more, but will probably last longer like grass in a strong wind versus a thin rigid tree. Also if you are over 185 pounds, you may want to go to a Mavic CXP 33 or Velocity Fusion, which are slightly heavier, but more durable.If you want the Fusion in silver, it may be hard to get, though it is available. Also brass nipples should be used. The wheelbuilder should use Spoke Prep from Wheelsmith, Nipple Cream Rock and Roll Lube or DT’s nipple cream during the build.

By: Mark

Mark — Thu, 29 May 2008 13:01:23 +0000

I have *exactly* the same setup as you describe. After being frustrated with broken spokes and continual out-of-true problems with the low spoke count wheels that came with my road bike, I went the the LBS and had them build me a set of new wheels last season. Shimano 105 hubs (much cheaper than Ultegra), 36 hole front and back, with the Mavic Open Pros. I was looking for high strength wheels that would stay in true without a bunch of fussing around with them. I’ll take reliability over light any day of the week when it comes to wheels. I’m not a racer, though I do enjoy trying to keep up with the faster riders in our club on our fast rides. Mostly, I just like to go out and ride for two to four hours at a time.

No problems with the wheels last year, but I only put about 1500 miles on them after they were built. The rear was slightly out of true after a few hundred miles, but that was fixed up no problem by the LBS.

I have about 1000 miles this year so far on them. I had a slight out of true on the rear a week ago, and had them true it up again. Yesterday, I took the bike in for a new chain, and they noticed the rear wheel was out of true again, even worse than it was when the wheel was trued the week before.

I had the owner check it out (he built the wheel) and he put it on the stand, tightened a couple spokes slightly and then bang, the flange on the hub (on the drive side) snapped. A section of the flange on the drive side about three holes in size ripped away from the rest of the hub nearly completely, obviously destroying the hub.

I believe the wheel builder is very qualified to build wheels, and that he had the spokes properly tensioned so that it was not a mistake he made that caused this problem. Presumably, the flange had cracked on my last ride, causing the wheel to go out of true, and tightening the spokes some more was enough to cause it to snap.

He is going to fix it for me, replacing the hub etc under warranty, but I am not going to be able to ride the road bike until it gets rebuilt, and this time of year is real busy for shops around here, so it may take a while. Looks like I am on the mtn bike for a while in the meantime.

I am a larger than average rider, but not a huge guy. I am 6 feet 4 inches tall, and not real skinny, so I no doubt put a bigger load than average on a wheel, especially the rear wheel. However, I tend to spin at a high cadence rather than push hard in big gears so I would think that would lessen the stress a certain amount and offset the size issue some.

It seems to me this wheel setup should be good enough to use on a tandem bike, which would put at least as much stress on the rear wheel as I do as a large single rider. I would assume that 105 level components would be stronger than the higher priced, lighter upper level stuff like Dura Ace. I am wondering if this is this a valid assumption?

Should I be looking at some other level (like Ultegra) for additional strength, or some other brand of hub? Or, is this likely an isolated failure that hopefully will not repeat itself?

I paid a fair amount for hand-built wheels with a desire for high strength and reliability. I am just wondering if there are some changes I should make in the components used to accomplish this, or if I was a little bit unlucky this time around?

By: Thomas

Thomas — Sun, 18 May 2008 16:40:18 +0000

Response to Maniac:

I understand that it’s tougher to get that QR lever next to the frame. I’m not saying it should hit the fork and chain stay, but that it should be parallel and next to it. As a mechanic I want to eliminate any chance of anything knocking the lever out place or the possibility that the lever is snagged on objects (a pant cuff, a falling pannier, A QUICK RELEASE OF A CLOSELY PASSING CYCLIST. It is more of an issue when you are riding in packs and the field is really tight. One swerve from the cyclist ahead of you and his QR could hook yours or her tire could easily knock yours out of place.

Watch some road races. You’ll see them installed CORRECTLY.

By: Maniac

Maniac — Wed, 07 May 2008 23:03:06 +0000

I used to ride Opens on my commuter. They started out fine for about 6 months until I just started shredding spokes. Last summer I burned through 6 spokes, and all from different spots on the wheel (i.e. replaced each spoke with a new one and then few days later another one blow out). The front wheel is actually as true as the day I bought the wheels. I spent some extra cash 9 months ago for Mavic Ksyrium Equipes and have had to touch them with a spoke wrench. I think Mavic is spending more money, resources, and time on the Kysrium line and have let go of the other stuff and I understand why.

By the way Thomas, clamping against the fork is pointless, good luck getting the quick release clamped real tight (to remove all play from the hub) and still be able to pull it back open. When you clamp offset from the fork (front and rear) you close down the quick release a few extra mm and also have something to put leverage on to break it free with out being an Arnold.

By: Thomas

Thomas — Sun, 23 Mar 2008 15:02:38 +0000

Who taught you how to use a quick release? The clamping arm goes toward your fork bud.

By: Jeremy

Jeremy — Tue, 04 Mar 2008 02:37:18 +0000

First off if you are looking at open pros you can not go wrong. Over the years I have gone through about 5 to 6 different wheelsets built with open pros everything from 105 hubs I use on the trainer and commuter to race wheels laced to Chris King hubs. I rarely have to true my open pros, on the trainer about double the time inbetween service as other rims if not three or more times. A testament to strength I often have to ride at night due to work conflicts one night ride I accidently hit a pot hole so hard it threw me off the bike. I finished the ride roughly 15 miles and took the true wheel into the shop because I couldn’t believe it wasn’t broken. Turns out it had a hairline crack though remained surprising true and got me back to the barn.

By: Ronsta

Ronsta — Wed, 20 Feb 2008 03:56:18 +0000

First set of wheels I built, 3 years ago or so. Open Pros to Surly hubs with Wheelsmith SS14g spokes and brass nipples. Used them for everything from cross to commuting and haven’t trued them once yet. They’re still one of the roundest and smoothest sets I have. Just straight forward no-frills durability.